Saturday 16 November 2013

Matatiele - scenic drives to 3 border posts

Matatiele is a vibrant town in the Eastern Cape on the R56 road between Kokstad and Maclear. The R56 is described as a shorter and safer alternative to the N2 between KZN and the Cape. 

There are 3 border posts from South Africa to Lesotho within 70 km from Matatiele. It is often used as a scenic route for tourists to visit all 3 in a circular route from Matatiele through Lesotho. No one better than the local tourist guide, Philip Rawlins, who will gladly assist with route planning, road conditions, tourist attractions, and even excursions in his Cruiser 4x4. Philip is also the owner of Resthaven Guesthouse in Matatiele which I can recommend for good accommodation and real good food.

Ongeluksnek Border post is 65 km north-east of Matatiele, inside the Eastern Cape Park, Ongeluksnek Nature Reserve. The 55 km gravel road leading to the border post is rough and it will take you more than an hour to reach the border post. There are only police staff present, no immigration officials. This is the second border post to Lesotho that we encountered where there is no border post on the opposite side. 

As can be expected, it is a quiet border post used mainly by 4x4 enthusiasts, tour guides, and a few locals crossing the border by foot. There are often days, or even weeks, that no one crosses the border here during the 7:00 to19:00 operational hours.

There is a nice 4x4 road crossing the southern Drakensberg into Lesotho. One of the first scenic attractions in Lesotho is Lake Letsie, 7 km from the SA border post.


Entrance to the nature reserve before the Ongeluk's Nek border post
Ongeluk's Nek border post
Exit the SA side, but no border post on the other side
Scenic route over the southern Drakensberg to Letsie Lake

Qacha's Nek is a commercial border post,  35 km from Matatiele. Unfortunately, despite its busy status (open from 7:00 to 20:00) and used mostly by tourists and tour operators, it is also on the end of a bad gravel road that will take an hour to complete from Matatiele. 

We crossed the border here on a rainy morning to travel the very scenic route in Lesotho to Ramatseliso, the next border post. The first 10 km is a perfect tarred road through the Qacha's Nek village. The A4 gravel road to Ramatseliso is a good gravel road across many mountains, rivers, and valleys.

On our way to Qacha's Nek from Matatiele
Full-blown commercial border post at Qacha's Nek
We paid R30 toll fee on the Lesotho side
Scenic road in Lesotho from Qacha's Nek to Ramatseliso

Ramatseliso' Gate border post is only 45 km from Matatiele. At an altitude of 2285 meters, it is the highest border post in South Africa. Only border police staff are present and they do the immigration duties. The last 6 km of the 'road' on the SA side is in a terrible condition and only recommended for 4x4 vehicles. 


Only the brave (probably with quad bikes or serious 4x4 vehicles) will attempt the border post from the SA side.  Most tour operators come from the Lesotho side. That is also what we did, and although a bit nerve testing at places and the pouring rain, we slowly went down the pass without incident. The weather did not allow us to take many pictures. Congratiolations to Esti from Capitec who followed us in a SUV 2x4 vehicle with which she had no similar experience - well done!

Ramatseliso's Gate border post on Lesotho's side
High altitude mist and rain


You can read an article by Toast Coetser in the November 2013 issue of WEG / GO magazine about all the mountain scenery around Matatiele.